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High waves to join sun for weekend

People headed to the beach this weekend should expect great weather but dangerously high waves.

“We are looking at a long period swell this weekend, right at about 9 feet, with breakers of 15-16 feet,” said meteorologist Brian Koeneke of the National Weather Service.

According to a release from California State Parks, some beaches may be closed to the public if surf becomes too dangerous.

“So far no warning has been issued for Northern California yet,” said Rick Nolan, chief of interpretation for Redwood National and State parks on Wednesday.

Nolan said it would be up to “the CSP and ourselves to monitor” the local surf for waves that would require a closure.

“This can be especially dangerous, because the weather’s been nice — people will be out in the water,” said Koeneke.

The gap in time between large waves will give the illusion of calm waters, he said.

“It’s not going to be like one wave after another. There’s going to be a lull in the waves,” said Koeneke.

He said the danger comes from “sneaker waves” that can crash down on an unsuspecting swimmer or surfer.

“It’s also really dangerous for people with little kids that aren’t strong swimmers — they could definitely get caught,” Koeneke said.

On the bright side, “This is what surfers really like,” he said.

Jessica Barbee, an employee at Noll Surf and Skate, said whenever local surfers hear about a swell, they take to the beaches.

“When surfers hear about a swell, we get more business here,” said Barbee.

She said local surfers and tourists come in in the morning before the swells arrive to gear up for a day of wave-riding, and “then it will be pretty slow all day, because they will be out on the beach, surfing.”

Barbee said some local surfers come in to buy accessories like wax, while others rent boards and wet suits.

Koeneke said the waves are “going to be decreasing in size by Sunday, but Saturday’s going to be the really big day.”
 
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