Heirloom recipes

Distinct and tasty, heirloom tomatoes an annual treat

Photos by the Daily Triplicate/Bryant Anderson

It’s that special time of year for heirloom tomatoes.

In the late summer, before thoughts turn to pumpkins and changing leaves,  ripe heirloom tomatoes are being picked off the vine.

Some of you might already be growing heirloom tomatoes in your backyard. If not, they are available at the local farmers markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Heirloom tomatoes come in all sorts of colors and sizes. These tomatoes are grown from older varieties of seeds, hence they are “heirlooms,” explained Devon Morgante, a local chef and owner of Vita Cucina.

“They’re not as nice and perfect as other tomatoes,” he said, “but the flavor is so much better.”

Some tomatoes bought at the grocery are genetically-modified so that each one comes out uniform, Morgante explained, including organic tomatoes. This is not the case with heirloom tomatoes.

Photos by the Daily Triplicate/Bryant Anderson

Heirloom tomatoes are not only special because of their unique colors and flavor, but because it’s a “special thing” that’s available this one time of year, Morgante said.

“They’re a once-a-year treat,” added his wife Michelle. “One month out of the year you can get them.”

Heirloom tomatoes can be used in virtually any recipe calling for the heart-shaped fruit, he said. One simple but classic recipe is Caprese (pronounced ka-pray-zay) salad, an Italian dish from the island of Capri.

Photos by the Daily Triplicate/Bryant Anderson

Morgante got his heirloom tomatoes for the Caprese salad from Ocean Air Farms in Fort Dick.

He started off by bringing balsamic vinegar to a boil to thicken it to the consistency of syrup.

While the vinegar was reducing, he sliced the tomatoes and fresh mozzarella into one-half-inch slices.

Photos by the Daily Triplicate/Bryant Anderson

Next, Morgante stacked each ingredient like so: tomato, then mozzarella topped with a basil leaf, and repeat.

The final step is a slow drizzle of olive oil and the balsamic vinegar, which, after being reduced on the stovetop, clung to the tomato-mozzarella-basil stack.

The three main ingredients could be arranged in different ways or topped with pesto.

The Morgantes suggested several recipes that call for heirloom tomatoes and a salad that utilizes blackberries. Del Norte County is rife with blackberries, but pick what you can find now since the season is nearly over.

Photos by the Daily Triplicate/Bryant Anderson

Caprese Salad

Salad:

1 pound heirloom tomatoes

8 ounces sliced fresh mozzarella

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

9 basil leaves

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

as needed, kosher salt

as needed, fresh ground black pepper

Method:

• Slice the tomatoes and fresh mozzarella about one-half-inch thick.

• Stack a piece of tomato on top of a slice of mozzarella, then top with a basil leaf.

• Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

• Finish with fresh-cracked black pepper and salt.

Stuffed Tomatoes

Ingredients:

6 heirloom tomatoes, blanched and peeled

12 ounces orzo pasta, cooked and cooled

8 ounces bleu cheese, crumbled

1/2 bunch parsley, chopped

1 bunch scallions, sliced thin

4 ounces pine nuts, toasted

Red Wine Vinaigrette:

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon shallot, minced

1/2 clove garlic, minced

to taste, kosher salt

to taste, fresh ground black pepper

Method for vinaigrette:

• In a medium size bowl, mix together the vinegar, mustard, garlic, shallot, salt and pepper.

• Once these ingredients are well combined, slowly add oils while whisking.

• Adjust seasoning if needed. Set aside.

To assemble the tomatoes:

• Cut off the top half of the tomatoes and set aside. Scoop out the tomatoes’ centers, dice and set aside.

• In a large bowl, combine the orzo, bleu cheese, parsley, pine nuts, the diced tomato centers and scallions. Gently toss with a small amount of the vinaigrette.

• Fill tomatoes with the mixture and place the top back on each stuffed tomato. Place on bed of mixed greens, drizzle with vinaigrette and serve.

Fresh Mozzarella and Cherry Tomato Canapé

Spread:

1/2 pound cherry tomatoes, chopped

8 ounces mozzarella, diced

1/4 cup basil leaves, cut into long, thin strips

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1 clove garlic, minced into a paste

to taste, kosher salt

to taste, black pepper, fresh ground

1 baguette of bread

Method:

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees

• Slice baguette on a slight angle. Lay slices out on a sheet pan and brush with a little olive oil.

• In a bowl, mix together the tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, olive oil and vinegar. Add garlic paste and mix well. Season the mixture to taste with salt and pepper.

• Let sit at least half an hour or up to 2 hours at room-temperature.

• Place toasted bread on a tray and spoon the tomato mixture over the top of each piece.

• Place on platter and serve.

Mixed Green Salad with Goat Cheese and Blackberry Vinaigrette

Salad:

1 pound mixed greens

12 ounces blackberries

12 ounces candied pecans

12 ounces goat cheese, crumbled

Vinaigrette:

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon shallot, minced

1/2 clove garlic, minced

to taste, kosher salt

to taste, black pepper, fresh ground

Method for vinaigrette:

• In a medium bowl mix together the vinegar, mustard, garlic, shallot, salt and pepper. Combine well.

• Once these ingredients are well combined slowly add oils while whisking.

• Adjust seasoning if needed.

To assemble the salad:

• Place mixed greens in a large bowl. Pour a small amount of the vinaigrette over the greens and lightly toss.

• Add the pecans, half of the blackberries and toss once more, then place a small amount in the center of a chilled plate.

• Sprinkle remaining blackberries and crumbled goat cheese over the salad and serve.