watershed wonderland

: A stretch of the newly completed 2-mile all-access trail that connects Big Flat Campground to Chimney Flat and Fox Flat.

On an early summer afternoon I listened to the satisfying splash and crunch of water, then gravel, beneath my sandals as I stepped from my kayak onto a beach at the edge of the Smith River.

We could take a long hike up to the ridges to look out over the forest and toward the ocean, or hop on mountain bikes for a more exhilarating ride, or simply wander about and enjoy the diversity of flora and fauna.

Del Norte County is well known for its majestic coastline, towering redwoods and historical lighthouses. These are reasons enough for a visit to the northernmost coastal county of California. What many people don’t realize is that there are years worth of explorations to be had in this rich corner of the state.

A few miles inland of Crescent City, past Redwood National and State Parks, is the Smith River National Recreation Area. Designated in 1990, this status both protects the area’s unique natural features and maintains recreational opportunities. Managed by the U.S. Forest Service, Smith River NRA is made up of 460-plus square miles of land that host nearly 80 miles of well maintained trails, bountiful wildlife, botanical areas and excellent camping. The lifeblood of the NRA is, of course, the Smith River. It is the longest Wild and Scenic River in the United States, the only undammed river in California from source to sea, and is outstanding for swimming, floating and world-class fishing.

A trip to Smith River NRA turns a simple vacation in Del Norte County into a life experience. For those lucky enough to live here, there is a never-ending supply of outdoor exploration to pursue through all seasons.

Campgrounds await

Kayakers float the swollen South Fork of the Smith River in a wintertime scene.

My friends and I had chosen Big Flat Campground as our home base for our adventure because of its proximity to a good put-in spot on the Smith for a day of paddling, but this is hardly a playground reserved for kayakers. This unique campground boasts recent improvements including ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act)-compliant facilities and just over 2 miles of new, all-access trail connecting Big Flat to Chimney Flat and Fox Flat, two day use areas with improvements of their own.

Developed as a campground in 1963 by the U.S. Forest Service, Big Flat Campground has been a popular site for humans since the native Tolowa established villages along the water to hunt deer, elk and quail and gather acorns, nuts, berries and basket material. The campground has seen significant improvements over the past six years. The current Forest Service budget only allows for regular upkeep of existing infrastructure, but with help from the Recreational Enhancement Act and Recreation Site Improvement funding, upgrades and new additions have been made.

The 25 campsites can accommodate RVs up to 22 feet in length, and we had ample space to pitch two tents in one site.  There is no running water at the campground so be prepared to bring your own. New vault toilets are kept clean and odor-free. New tables, bear-proof trash bins, easy clean fire/barbecue pits and resurfaced roads and campsite parking make this an inviting get-away, whether you are just escaping the fog in Crescent City or traveling across the country.

Big Flat Campground is located about 14 miles up the South Fork Road off of Highway 199 at an elevation of about 550 feet, which keeps it well out of the coastal summer fog. It is usually pleasantly warm, but gently shaded by Douglas fir, tanoak and big leaf maple. It sits alongside Hurdygurdy Creek, one of the largest tributaries of the South Fork of the Smith River. Though much of the Hurdygurdy watershed is currently held as private land, it may soon be included in the NRA to benefit the holistic management of the Smith River watershed.

The flows in Hurdygurdy Creek are completely dictated by rainfall: by summer it’s a trickling stream with calm aquamarine pools and by winter, a raging class V creek kayak run. It provides key spawning habitat for wild salmon and steelhead and a fishing spot for coastal cutthroat trout.

The all-access trail, built this summer and funded by Capital Improvement Funds, begins at the Big Flat Campground and takes a sinuous path through the forest, parallel to Hurdygurdy Creek. It is 3 feet wide and the slopes are designed to meet the needs of wheelchair users. Constructed with alternative materials, it takes on a more natural appearance than asphalt, but is hardened and suitable for foot traffic, wheelchairs and bicycles.

Big Flat to other flats

On a quiet afternoon I began at Big Flat and followed the trail by bike to the first spur roughly one mile away leading to Chimney Flat. Early miners, hunters and fisherman lived in this area, primarily during the warm season. In 1854 gold was discovered in the Big Flat area. Trails established by the Tolowa connecting Orleans, Happy Camp and Crescent City soon became major trade routes and the Big Flat area became a major trade center. A stone chimney from an old homestead built at the turn of the century still stands alongside the all-access path as testament to the development that came with resource extraction.

The Chimney Flat day-use area has a new parking lot, five dispersed picnic tables (three are all-access), and a new vault toilet. It provides a serene stop along the trail to have lunch or to cool your feet in Hurdygurdy Creek. Pedaling back up the slope between giant Douglas fir trees, I regained the main trail and continued on to Fox Flat.

Fox Flat marks the final destination on the all-access trail. There is a 0.2 mile spur on the left of the all-access trail at Fox Flat that branches off to an opening with a view over a deep swimming pool-sized hole in the river. Had it been earlier in the day I would have been tempted to jump in, but the sun was already low and a breeze was stirring the alders above. I returned to the main trail and settled on the endpoint bench overlooking Hurdygurdy Creek for a rest before making my way back to the campground. This trail makes for a perfect after-dinner cruise on a bicycle or an all-day stroll through this historic area.

Big Flat Campground and the nearby day-use areas are only a snapshot of what the Smith River NRA has to offer. Patrick Creek, Panther and Grassy Flat campgrounds offer their own set of recreational opportunities on the Middle Fork of the Smith River, while the North Fork Campground places you in a completely different beautiful and remote setting. Each is unique.

Smith River NRA is truly a land of plenty for an outdoor enthusiast or those just seeking a little peace and quiet. Recreational opportunities abound. Wildlife and botanical interests are diverse and plentiful. My friends and I had been coming back for years and kept finding new places to explore until I finally decided to move here and celebrate the landscape every day.

Come see this wonderland for yourself.