Del Norte Eats: A Taste of California

Kelley Atherton, The Triplicate

Editor's note: This is the final installment of Del Norte Eats to be written by Kelley Atherton, who is leaving for graduate school at Columbia University. She came up with the concept for the series.

Since moving to California, goat cheese has become one of my favorite things to eat. On a cracker with sweet chili sauce, on a pizza with figs, mixed with beets and walnuts. Delicious. I associate it with California - maybe because it's a healthy cheese, maybe because it's a little Mediterranean or maybe because I've eaten so much of it here.

Ocean Air Farms in Fort Dick is making down-on-the-farm creamy, tangy goat cheese or chevre (French for goat) as it's also known.

Down in Arcata, Cypress Grove Chevre has made a name for itself with

its goat cheese - its chevre products are sold in local grocery stores.

Chevre is not difficult to make at home, as long as you've got a

supply of goat milk. It's an alternative for people who can't eat dairy


Like a lot of other cheeses, goat cheese just takes time and practice to find the perfect recipe.

Paul Madeira, an owner of Ocean Air, has been experimenting with chevre for several years.

Ocean Air has four goats that are milked twice a day. Madeira said a

"good goat" will produce a gallon a day - his are not quite up to that

level yet.

"Having a goat to eat your brush is different than getting a gallon a day," Madeira said.

Ocean Air brings in interns from all over the country to help take care of the farm during the growing season.

Mara Estes, from upstate New York, and Tara Westenhiser, from

Arkansas, were milking the farm's cow, Mimi, and goat, Tweety, on a

recent morning.

They said the difference between milking the two animals is that cows

have more milk and bigger teats so milking goes faster. Goats are

harder to milk, but they're less intimidating because they're smaller.

After they were done with the milking, they poured it through a filter (to get any hair or debris out) into a container.

Mimi's calf Beefcake was fed a large bottle containing some of her

mother's milk and some of Tweety's because calves thrive on it,

according to Westenhiser.

After the goats were milked, Madeira pasteurized a gallon of milk in a

large pot on the stove top in the kitchen on the farm by heating it up

to 160 degrees and then letting it cool to 86 degrees.

"You have to wipe the slate clean," he said, then the starter culture adds some flavor.

Having fresh milk is a part of life on the farm, so the farmers started experimenting with milk products.

"Subtle variation makes all the difference," Madeira said.

Once the milk was pasteurized, Madeira added rennet, which is enzymes

produced in animals' stomachs that coagulates milk, causing it to

separate into curds and whey.

He then added chevre culture, which begins the fermentation process to make cheese.

The goat milk then had to sit for at least 12 hours to solidify.

The next day, Madeira cut the curd and poured it into a strainer

lined with cheesecloth to separate the whey and then hung the cheese for

about 36 hours - the rest happens all on its own.

The thing about cheese, he said, is that it's the process of taking water out of milk.

The end result was thick and creamy with a little bit of tangy

flavor. Goat cheese is diverse - it spreads easily, but also crumbles

into chunks depending on how it's being used. It's also melts into a

smooth cream when heated.

Goat cheese is one of the more healthy cheeses and I happen to like

its flavor. I use it a lot on pizza, in salads, alongside beets, it

pairs particularly well with balsamic vinegar - the possibilities are


But I never thought to use it as filling in a tart.

Whenever I look for new recipes, I go to . I typed

"goat cheese" in the search engine and found oven-dried tomato tart with

goat cheese and black olives as one of the top results.

Three of my favorite things in a tart? Sold, sold and sold.

The description with the recipe noted, "Oven-drying the tomatoes

before baking the tart concentrates their sweetness and prevents juices

from softening the filling."

Tomatoes will soon be available at the Farmers Market. In the

meantime, I picked up some organic heirloom (in my opinion, the best

tasting kind and pretty to boot) and roma tomatoes.

A friend happened to leave oil-cured black olives that the recipe

called for (she got them at Fred Meyer) at my house after a

get-together. It was fate.

The first thing to do was dry the tomatoes in the oven.

I cut each one in half and took out the seeds. Placing them cut side

up in a pan, I scatter-minced garlic and thyme and drizzled olive oil 

over the tomatoes.

Heated to 300 degrees, the tomatoes roasted for nearly two hours until they were wrinkling and a little charred.

I prepared the crust by rolling out a sheet of puff pastry and

fitting it into a tart pan. It was a little tricky getting the square

sheet into a round pan, but I wrestled with it until it worked.

Be sure to pierce the crust with a fork before baking because the puff pastry does indeed puff up.

I weighed it down with dry beans, but it was still bubbling up. I pierced the bubbles with a fork to get the crust to relax.

While the crust baked, I mashed together shredded mozzarella with the

goat cheese with some thyme, eggs and cream and seasoned with salt and


I poured the mixture into the prepared crust, then placed the tomato

halves in and dotted the tart with the olives. (The olives were pitted

so I removed the pits by slicing the olives and popping out the pits.)

A sprinkle of grated parmesan cheese and the tart was ready to bake for about 35 minutes.

I was happy with the result. It's an attractive tart with bright

tomatoes and dots of black. The cheese mixtures baked to a golden brown

and the crust was flaky, and I mean flaky. It was cheesy and tart from

the tomatoes, tangy from the goat cheese and savory from the olives. A

great summertime appetizer or a main course with a side salad.

This tart reminds me of California: fresh ingredients, healthy and a little European.

I don't know how my Midwestern family will take to a goat cheese

tart, but I can't help but take a little bit of the California way of

eating home with me.

Reach Kelley Atherton at .

Recipe: Oven-Dried Tomato Tart with Goat Cheese and Black Olives


5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

6 medium tomatoes or large romas, cored, halved crosswise, seeded

2 small garlic cloves, thinly slivered

2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme, divided

1 sheet frozen puff pastry (half of 17.3-ounce package), thawed

1 cup coarsely grated whole-milk mozzarella cheese

1/2 cup soft fresh goat cheese (about 4 ounces)

2 large eggs

1/4 cup whipping cream

1/3 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese


1. Preheat oven to 300anddeg;F. Line rimmed baking sheet with foil; brush foil with 1 tablespoon oil. Place tomato halves, cut side up, on baking sheet. Sprinkle garlic and 1 tablespoon thyme over tomatoes; drizzle remaining 1/4 cup oil over. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake until tomatoes begin to shrink and are slightly dried but still soft, about 2 hours. Cool tomatoes on sheet. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Store in single layer in covered container in refrigerator.)

2. Roll out pastry on lightly floured surface to 13-inch square. Transfer pastry to 9-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom, pressing pastry firmly onto bottom and sides of pan. Trim overhang to 3/4 inch. Fold overhang in and press, pushing crust 1/4 inch above pan. Pierce crust all over with fork; chill 30 minutes.

3. Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 375anddeg;F. Line pastry with foil; fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until crust is set, about 20 minutes. Remove foil and beans; bake until crust edges are golden, piercing with fork if crust bubbles, about 12 minutes longer. Cool crust 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350anddeg;F.

4. Meanwhile, using fork, mash mozzarella cheese, goat cheese, and remaining 1 tablespoon thyme together in medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add eggs and cream and stir until mixture is well blended. Spread cheese filling evenly in crust. Arrange tomato halves in filling, cut side up. Place olives between tomatoes. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese evenly over top. Bake until filling is puffed and set, about 35 minutes. Cool 5 minutes. Push up pan bottom, releasing sides. Serve tart warm.

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